Issue 14 · Winter
The last oyster shucker on Pier Nine
Forty years, one knife, and a pier that is about to become flats. Our cover story.
In this issue
All stories → New stories
Bread at 4 a.m.
A night shift with the bakers who feed a neighbourhood before it wakes.
A market in winter
What a street market sells when nothing grows, and who still comes.
Six soups for a cold flat
One pot, one hour, one loaf of yesterday's bread.
In defence of the fig
A fruit that refuses to travel, and why that is its best quality.
From the editor
This issue is about the people who work while the rest of us sleep: bakers, shuckers, market porters. Their food is on your table by breakfast; their names almost never are.
Recipes
Cook this weekend
Six soups for a cold flat
One pot, one hour, one loaf of yesterday's bread.
In defence of the fig
A fruit that refuses to travel, and why that is its best quality.
The cave under the dairy
Wheels, mould and the patience of a cheesemaker's grandson.
Letters
Readers write back
I cooked the lentil soup from Issue 12 for my father. He asked for the magazine, not the recipe.
Finally a food magazine that talks to the people washing up.
The market piece made me go back to a stall I had walked past for ten years. The pears were extraordinary, and the woman selling them had a story better than yours.
Please never put a celebrity chef on the cover.